News21 A Journalism Initiative of the Carnegie and Knight Foundations

When I mention to friends and colleagues that I'm going to the Islamic Republic of Iran, they look shell shocked and incredulous. Their first question is predictable: are you scared? I give them my stock answer: it's safe, the people are friendly and the U.S. media is hysterical. I say to myself, I'm much more scared by the prospect of spending the rest of my summer sitting in a newsroom editing reams of video than I am about exploring a deeply misunderstood country and gaining insight into its diverse faiths.

I began my summer in New York, Chicago and California, exploring how Persian identities are changed by America, navigating the seemingly indelible divide between an adopted home and a native land, two countries that are often see as opposite extremes of a religiosity continuum. I learned how Persian immigrants' views on religion become more or less malleable and witnessed how these changes are manifest in their everyday lives. Iran offers the opposite; rather than witnessing renegotiated identities, I would have an opportunity to understand how members of minority religions preserve their faiths under an Islamic theocracy.

I begin my foreign reporting in England rather than Iran because, although Iran's constitution officially recognizes Muslims, Jews, Christians and Zoroastrians, the Bahai faith is not regarded as a religion and is "referred to as a heretical sect." Since I cannot speak to Bahais in Iran without jeopardizing their safety, I'm spending 48 hours in Lancaster, England reporting on the experience of Erfan Sabeti, a Persian Bahai studying for a doctorate in religious studies at Lancaster University.

One reason why the Bahais have fared far worse than other religious minorities in Iran is because the faith was founded a mere 150 years ago. "The idea of a new prophet after Mohamed is heretical under Islamic theology," said Mohammad Fadel, a professor at the University of Toronto Law School who teaches a class called Religion and the Liberal State: The Case of Islam. He added, "If you're a devout Muslim, this would be tantamount to apostasies."

One reason why many Bahais remain in Iran is because the Persian citizenry is far less prejudiced than their theocratic government. "There are many complexities of Iranian society because whatever comes from the government is hated by the people," said Hani Mansourian who grew up a Muslim in Tehran and came to New York last year to study at Columbia University's School of International and Public Affairs. "Because Bahais are despised by the government, the people automatically love them." He added, "They are considered one of the best minorities in Iran in terms of their assimilation. People think they're trustworthy." Sabeti agrees that the Iranian government's position on his faith is not embraced by many of his countrymen. "The other students would applaud when I stood up for Bahais because I seemed to be some sort of anarchist."

Today, in much of the world the Bahai faith is largely associated with camaraderie, equality and nonviolence. Some Bahais believe these facets have a better chance of resonating with the next generation of Iranians. "Today's kids were not as exposed to the propaganda of the 80s so the Bahais are benefiting from this by reeducating people about their faith," said Sina Mossayeb whose parents are Persian Bahais living in Los Angeles. "I think a lot of Iranians are interested in the Bahai as an alternative to the theocracy because it shows we can be morally conservative but socially progressive," he said. "There are many principles in the Bahai faith that are universal."

Bahais who openly declare their faith, such as Erfan Sabeti (at left), are denied university entrance in Iran.

Interactive Map: Pilgrimage
Part One: Arriving in London
Part Two: Tehran, Iran
Part Three: Yazd, Iran
Part Four: Shiraz, Iran
Part Five: Persepolis, Iran
Part Six: Esfahan, Iran
Part Seven: Leaving Iran