On the way from Yazd to Shiraz in a rental car, we stop at the small desert town of Abarkuh. Sitting under a 4,000-year old cypress tree, my minder tells me that that the local mosque was constructed over the base of a Zoroastrian fire temple. "The Zoroastrian community still lives here and has a strong presence in this pre-Islamic town." Walking down the narrow alleys, I find myself looking into people's faces and wondering if our ancestors were related at one time.
I spend most of my time in Shiraz with mullahs—Islamic religious leaders—at the Khan Theological School where there are 160 students. Anyone who masters Arabic and Farsi is eligible to become a cleric. And the school has some of the best computers and web portals in the country. The first mullah I meet, Khan Madrasehr, says that he is very happy with my visit. "We have no problem with the people of the U.S. and they are welcome in Iran," he said. "It is only the U.S. government that is not kind to us." When I ask Madrasehr about religious minorities in Iran, he said, "we have a special respect for other religions here and in the Koran it is written that we should respect one another."
The mullahs are eager to challenge any stereotypes I may have. "Most of the Western world thinks that we want suicide bombing, but we don't support that because Islam teaches us that if you have no mercy for yourself then you have no mercy for others," said Madrasehr. "In Islam, human life is very sacred and should be cherished. We are against radical Islam and the Taliban is a puppet of the U.S. not our people."
The mullahs are unreserved in their criticism of U.S. foreign policy. "We are also the victims of terrorist groups and the dual policy of the United States," said one. "On the one hand, the U.S. says Iran is a terrorist state and on the other hand they support the MKO in Iraq." Iraq is home to several thousand fighters of the Mujahedin-e Khalq Organization (MKO), the largest armed Iranian dissident group. Madrasehr added, "We think the American people are very gracious but are manipulated by politicians."
I was surprised to find myself agreeing with the mullahs on many of their points. But the similar views ended when I asked about the Bahai faith. "Bahais and Wahhabi was the work of colonialism," said Madrasehr. "They are one of the plots of the Super Powers to create turmoil and catch fish from the troubled water." The Bahais that I saw in New York clearly have nothing in common with the Wahhabi. Their evenings of scripture, prayer, music and festivities draw together an eclectic group including tattooed teenagers with Mohawks, coiffed businesswomen in Wall Street attire, ex-hippies with frizzy dreadlocks and recent immigrants from far away places such as Guyana and Ethiopia. Today, the Bahai faith is largely associated with fraternity, equality and nonviolence.
My minder told me Bahais have lots of problem in Iran but are fine if they don't say anything publicly. "I have lots of friends who are Bahai but they're not open," said my minder. "They cannot attend university because the mullah say Bahai are a British conspiracy." my minder also said that most people see the faith as a new development and therefore illegitimate. "It's a man-made religion, like the division between Shia and Sunni are man-made." my minder denies that any other religious minorities are persecuted today. "Religious tolerance goes back to the time of Cyrus the Great and we see that even today Jews, Christians and Zoroastrians are allowed to practice freely," he said.
After having Shirazdi ice cream with the mullahs, I tell them they should visit the United States. "I don't like getting finger-printed," said Madrasehr with a laugh. The mullahs question me too. Is education free in America? Do students receive a lot of homework? Do they participate in extracurricular activities? Do cousins get married to one another? Is there poverty? I answer the mullahs' questions and ask them one of my own: are they happy with the current situation in Iran? "We need a transition to a better situation, better welfare and help for people," said Madrasehr. "But we don't want the new revolution to involve bloodshed. It must come about peacefully and without suffering."
When I leave, one of the mullahs calls out, "This is your house and any American who ever comes is welcome here." He adds, "You have a responsibility to wake up your world because if one body member is in pain, everyone is in pain as the great poet Sadi says."
Shiraz is much more liberal than Yazd and there are far fewer women draped in black tents. The city is home to a million people and famed as the birthplace of the Sufi poet, Hafez. People say that every household—regardless of religious affiliation—has a book of Hafez's poetry in their house and consults it for advice.
Before leaving Shiraz, I visit the Qoran Gate, the tomb of the poet Hafez, the Nasirol-Molk mosque and the Narenjestan/Qayam House. I also visit the Vakil complex, including the citadel, mosque and a bazaar.
The mullah's words follow me at every corner.
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Comments
virginia, 2008-05-03 07:10:49 -- Flag for review
Hello Ms. Guzder!
I took almost the same trip you did, in May of 2007, but with a group, courtesy of Global Exchange. It was an incredible experience. I am enjoying reliving some of it by reading your pages. I'm surprised more people did not comment... I hope many people read your words and think about them! All the best to you!
Virginia :)